Holos

[Cartographer]

Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2002 7:57 pm by midhack

Creating Home Holograms
By Anonymous


Many people ask about holograms. What are they? many are translucent paint, some are light refracting, others are merely metallic images or letters repeated over and over. Some others (Such as the old "blue" New York IDs) utilize a semi-reflective image press technique. I am by no means an expert on holograms, and for more information, I would recommend going to your favorite search engine and typing in "holography" , "holograms" or "light refraction" if you want more in depth information.

Regarding Creating home holograms, I have yet to have heard of exact ways. I will attempt to discuss some ways I HAVE heard of.

The first way is to go out and get an ALPS MD series printer. they can print metallic ink in blue, magenta, gold or silver.

A second way is to get translucent/reflective party packing film. you can get this at most party stores, some card stores and other places. this may accurarately reproduce the effect of holograms such as those used on VA or MD IDs.

A third way is to buy eye shadow. I've heard that you can use gold eye shadow over a stencil. this makes sense because you can rub it off if you mess up.



A fourth method is entirely new to me. Apparently it works great for Jersey style Holograms:

Now, a the Jersey Hologram is not really a Genuine Hologram; let me

explain; when you look at the Jersey Hologram straight on with no

light, it looks transparent and you can hardly see it. Yet when you

shine light on it, it is a goldish tint. How does it do it?... The

paint used. The paint that DMV uses to make the hologram in the Jersey

license is called INTERFERENCE GOLD (FINE). Write that down!! So here

is step one, go to an art store, get this exact paint if you can:

The company is called GOLDEN ACRYLICS --that's the paint company, not

the paint----. The actual paint is called INTERFERENCE GOLD (FINE).

To even be more exact, the paint # is 4040-2, series 7. Now if they

don't have the GOLDEN ACRYLICS brand, its ok, as long as it is

INTERFERENCE GOLD.--- (I've never used anything but Golden Acrylics, I

recommend you get that brand). Now, look carefully at the instructions

below on how to apply it.



When you go to the art store, go to a sales lady and ask for STENCIL

PAPER,and then get a STENCIL KNIFE, it looks like a pencil with a

pointed knife end. Go home, get a picture of the hologram, and trace it

onto the the stencil paper with fine pointed permenant black marker.

Cut the stencil out very carefully, tape it to a piece of white card

board, put your index finger on the dull side of the blade and it will

cut smoother... This can be very hard to do well, if you can't do it

good enough, find an art student and give him five bucks to do it for

you, its worth it.. Now that you have the stencil cut out, you will

need a foam applicator. They look like blackish gray foam on a wooden

stick, you can get it at a hardware store. OK, here it goes. Print out

the template and laminate it the first time with the five mil. Place

the Stencil in the proper location, and then tape it so that it will not

move and your hands are free. Now, take a small paint brush and put a

VERY TINY AND EVENLY SPREAD amount of the paint on the flat side of the

foam. There should be soooo little paint on it. Now, you must use your

hand like a JACKHAMMER!! Start at the top right of the hologram, Hit it

VERY HARD. You will HARDLY SEE any paint going on, but its going on.

Reapply the tiny amount of paint, and jackhammer it on to the stencil,

very hard. I can't stress enough that there should only be a miniscule

amount of paint on the foam applicator. Ok, take the stencil off, and

badabingbadaboom, you should (after much practice), have the most

realistic, incredible looking hologram. When you look on it straight

on, you should hardly see anything. When you shine it in the light, it

appears gold and glittery. Now, after it completely dries, laminate it

with the 10 mil matte and you have the best motherfucking fake ID on the

whole fucking planet. This takes practice, at first you will probably

apply it to much and it will be too thick. Remember, use a thin as hell

layer on the foam applicator, you should barely see the stuff going on

the paper, make sure you jack hammer it hard.

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Holograms




Knowledge1's Hologram Method for General Use by Knowledge1 (duh)
[email protected] This file was written for use on quixer.com,
your legal fake id resource center. Knowledge1 has no affiliation with or
benefit from quixer.com. Im just that nice. This file was written
08/25/2000 using methods that I've been using for about 2 years. If this
is 5 years later, this file will probably not be of use.
Side note: There are 5 or 6 jpgs along with this file of the method in
action. Track them down, it'll help illustrate some things.
__________________________________________________ _________________________________

1. Introduction.
OK guys, here we go. There's a couple different types of holograms used in
identification cards this day. The ones that we will be discussing are
called "interference" holograms. The most common color of interference
hologram is gold, but some places (Illinois) use interference red, which
appears rather pink in color. An interference hologram appears
whitish/clear when viewed straight on, but then flashes its appropriate
color. Nice stuff, but it is also simple stuff. The core of the
interference is Titanium Dioxide, which is actually the form of titanium
found in those multi-vitamins. Titanium Dioxide is flashy-shiny stuff, and
in interference holograms, it is coated on mica flakes. The mica flakes
are like little china plates--they will all lay the same direction when
spread out in the paint. See what I am getting at? The mica flakes look
reflective when viewed at certain angles, and are more clear at other
angles.
Interference holograms are in widespread use this day. They can be any
combination of pictures (seals usually) and text. Lets examine where we
can find them:
Interference Holograms We can Make with this File (US States)
__________________________________________________ ___________ (sorry, this
list goes West-East. Its easier to remember them all)
1. Washington (all) 2. Oregon (all) 3. California (newer) 4. Idaho (all)
5. Nevada (all) 6. Utah (all) 7. New Mexico (older) 8. Iowa (newer) 9.
Illinois (newer) 10. Indiana (older) 11. Kentucky (newer) 12. Tennessee
(older) 13. New Jersey (all) 14. Virginia (new) 15. Washington DC (older)
16. New Hampshire (all) 17. Rhode Island (all) 17.5 Texas (new, in a
strange way)
If you can't find a state nearby in this list of 17 that uses an
interference hologram, you must not live in the US.
2. Making the interference medium
So how do I make this wondrous stuff you ask? Well, there's two methods.
One is basic. The stuff is already made for you. The other is to make it
yourself, the method I recommend, due to the fact you can control the
thickness, stickiness, etc, etc of the mixture to make a much more high
quality hologram in the end.
I. Precooked
Head to the local art store, and go to the acrylic paint section. They
should carry Golden Acrylics paints. Color #4040 is called Interference
Gold (Fine). I've seen 4 oz pots for 6 to 10 dollars. It has a white body
and a white lid, plain black writing on the label. Nothing fancy there.
Buy it, head home, and skip to section 3. If you can't find it, there are
some other companies that make interference gold paints. There's some
online art stores that sell Golden Acrylics too. Go search a bit. Finally,
all else fails, talk to them yourself:
Golden Artist Colors, Inc New Berlin, NY 607-847-6154
II. D-I-Y (Knowledge1 method)
I like making my own inks. I like them dry, sticky, and tough. It makes it
easier to get evenly spread out, and they bond to the card a whole lot
better. I use two different type of ink:
Water-Based (For laminated cards)
The base to this is Speedball Clear Base. Speedball is nice stuff for
screen printing (yawn). It is a clear water-based goo. Nice stuff, runs
you about 10 bucks for a quart, which is WAY WAY WAY more than you will
ever need. It comes in a tan-grey tub with a black lid.
The interference stuff comes in a small little pot. It is a powder, made
by Pearl-Ex. Ive seen other brands too, it shouldn't be hard to find.
Comes in any color of the rainbow, and several interference colors. Blob
yourself out about the amount you plan to use of clear base. Now add about
1/50th that amount of powder. (Its a small pot of powder, but I need a new
one about once a year!) Mix the two together, and you can use it right
now, but I like to let it dry out for about 15 minutes. Easier to work
with when its a bit thicker.
Now I've seen people advance my method, adding things like Elmer's school
glue, and varnish. I find this basic mixture works just fine on laminated
cards--let it dry out, and it gets trapped inside the laminate resin
nicely. The pvc is a bit harder.
Oil-Based (For PVC cards)
The water based will not work too well on PVC. It never really sets inside
there, and makes the overlaminate prone to bubbles and coming off. Yuk.
So, I modified it a bit, to involve plastics. Simply switch the Speedball
to Metal Masters Acrysolv. Then, once you have made the gunk, and applied
it, dust the overlaminate with Rubber Coating from Ace Hardware (Aerosol,
yellow and blue can, $6.79). Allow to dry, then use a hot roller (you can
try and iron, but its DAMN hard to get it on nicely) to apply the
overlaminate to the pvc card.
3. Making the interference hologram
Now that we've made our medium. Its time to put it to work! What we need
is a stencil to nicely paint a repeatable pattern onto our card or
laminate. If we are doing pvc, do in on the inside of the overlaminate. If
this is to be laminated, inside of the laminate.
Side note: some people like stamps. I find it hard to make a stamp look
solid and even, especially when it needs to be thin. If you would like to
do a stamp, be my guest. A stamper store can make you a custom stamp, or
there are DIY text stamp kits available too. I've played with stamps, and
like stencils much better.
If your pattern is incredibly easy (NJ), you cn just make your own
stencil. I've found Duralar (art store again) makes an excellent reusable
stencil. Simply print out your pattern, pin the Duralar over it, and using
an exacto cut out the pattern. Voila. Head to application step.
Most patterns are nowhere near this simple. They have "floaters" (the
middle of an O for example), and are usually complex. We don't want to
carve out a stencil or a stamp ourselves. So we let mother nature do it
for us. At your art store or online, there are DIY stencil kits.
Essentially, they are mesh screens with a photo-reactive polymer on them.
You print out your hologram pattern on a transparency in black, lay it on
the stencil maker, expose to UV (read: sunlight) for 30 to 45 seconds,
come back inside, and wash it off. You find that you wash off anythign
that wasnt exposed--your black pattern. Since this is on a fine mesh
screen, you can have floaters and whatnot. Using fine grade stencil maker,
you get about 300 dpi resolution, perfectly high enough for any hologram
you want to make. It isnt an exact science, the exposing and washing, so
you might have to try two or three times before you get it right. You can
find this stuff online for like $15 for more than you will ever need. Once
you've washed out a nice pattern, it needs to be re-exposed to finsih
curing, so it is now a nice flexible stencil.
To make the hologram, we can lay our stencil over our laminate, and squish
the interference medium thorugh it. People have talked about pushing it
through, using a brayer (a roller), but I like the simple squeegee method.
Its just a small piece of soft plastic or rubber, and old soft credit card
will do the trick in a pinch. Pick up some medium, and swipe it across the
stencil. You can try it a few times, pick up the corner of the stencil,
and make sure you're getting it right. The only two tricks are: get it
straight (i built a little holder to align it for me), and getting the ink
through evenly (don't be lazy, make sure you swipe all over the stencil,
and its hard to push too muich through).
Now, allow to dry while admiring your handiwork, and its ready to go!
4. Advanced Ideas
4.1 Putting it on a pvc card
This can get tricky. If you are making a pvc card with the interference
holograms in it, some things to keep in mind:
1. Don't have it being a water-based medium. It will never dry in there 2.
Avoid Acetone, M-E-K, toulene, xylene. They'll eat your pvc inks. Unless
your using a teslin pouch, then that's OK. 3. Don't make them thick at
all. Thinner the better--otherwise you'll get bubbling and separation
problems with your overlaminate.
4.2 Glowing under a blacklight
Some states apparently have their interference holos glow under a
blacklight, aka Texas and Nevada, possily others. Simple fix here guys.
When making your interference paint, your art store sells "wild Things"
paint pots that are UV sensitive. They claim to be "blacklight paint of
choice for clubs, etc, etc...". Nice stuff, but its 20 bucks for more than
you will ever use. They have pint size pots, but you only need a few cc's
at a time. Anyway, they make "invisible green" for Texas, and "invisible
orange" for Nevada. Just mix a touch of the paint in with your holo
mixture. Voila. Simple.
5. Expanding on these ideas
Keep in mind, a trip to the art store can be wonderful. Just spend an hour
browsing the shelves, playing with their paints and whatnot. Michael's is
only OK, art-wise. You're better off going to a big art store near the
local university, or just a big local one. They may have dusty shelves,
but there's neat stuff in there. Pearl-Ex also makes pearlescent and two
tone interference powders. Red-blue and green-yellow. I havent looked into
making these into the retroreflective holograms, but mostly out of lack of
time. Someone try it. I've seen embossing plastic grains in the "hologram"
variety. You're meant to use a stamp to arrange them, then a heat-gun to
melt them into the shape. Since I only had an iron or a laminator to play
with, it didn't work too well for me, but give it a try guys, maybe I was
just messing up.
Other ideas? Comments? [email protected] Please don't ask me to
"Make you a fake ID" or "Hook you up". I don't make those things, that is
illegal. Plus I HATE people who say "Hook me up".

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This post is for the people who have clicked on this thread for some real info on holograms.

I have tried all the methods and this is what works for me. Stamps and cutting my stencils actually work but for me, I always had problems and they never worked well enough. Now if you read this entire thread you wind some posts on GOCCO.
I tried to find it where I live and I had no luck,
in checking it out though i was led to screen printing which led me to the Photoez stencil.

This is by far the easiest way of making a usable stencil for your holos.

I'll describe the method, you print out in black and white on a inkjet transparency the graphic and lettering you want for your holo. You then expose
the phot ez stencil to sunlight with the transparency on top of it.

After it has exposed properly, take the stencil to your sink and washout the unexposed area. Now you have a very good stencil.

Now comes the hard part, mixing the interference paint. This is what I do, I mix equal part interference, liquitex acrylic slow-dri medium and regular acrylic medium. Then I take the mixed paint to the refrigerator for an hour.

Then apply with a screen print squeege.

A word about application, I like to horizontal flip my graphic sbefore I print them si I can paint the holo to the inside of my pouche.

I find this more realistic.

Hope this helps.

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Pearl Ex
By Quix-

If you have read previous articles on quixer, you have noticed that we always
recommend a brand called Goldin Acrylics to make holograms, yet now, we have
found something even better: Pearl Ex powered pigments. The brand shown is 674
Interference Gold. Pearl Ex comes in an assortment of colors including
interference green, blue, and violet as well as duo-red-blue, due-blue-green and
the like. The duo colors reflect one color in one direction, and a different
color in the other direction (ie. the Georgia drivers license).
Pearl Ex, used in conjunction with a stencil (read our PhotoEz stencil HOWTO),
produces a very realistic holograms, especially for states such as California,
Washington, Georgia, New Jersey and more. The difference between the Goldin
Acrylics Interference Gold and the Pearl Ex Interference Gold is enormous. The
Goldin Acrylics has large 'flakes' that are extremely hard to pass through a
fine resolution stencil, whereas Pearl Ex offers much thinner 'crisps.' Add
Pearl Ex to Transparent Base in a 1:50 ratio (for every 1 gram Pearl Ex, 50
grams Base). This dilutes the Pearl Ex and makes it much more realistic.
Pearl Ex can be found at Michael's Art Store usually, or can be ordered online
from various locations, including:
Pearl Ex Pigments
If you wish to pay a bit more, but want to have 'Hologram Paint' that shines
under UV light, you might want to check out
Noveltyid.safeshopper.com
Good luck!

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Alps Holo Method
Designed by: Evilalive - Public Release by: Fakenuout


This site DOES NOT create Drivers Licenses or any Official documents or any Government documents.
This site DOES NOT contain any information on how to make official identification documents.
All documents are for novelty purpose only and do not resemble official identification documents.
These novelty id cards and documents are extremely authentic looking in appearance and are intended for novelty purposes only. Commercial use is restricted to organizations authorized by law to issue any legal cards or documents, and samples shown are the property of their respective organizations.
These novelty cards and documents are not issued for commercial use, and grant you no special privileges. All items for novelty use only. This understanding is valid, binding and enforceable against all persons who viewing this site.


All Info is for educational/novelty use only. The creator of this site takes no responsibility for any actions others might take with this info.
I decided that an step by step method was needed to help those in frustration.


Alps Md5000S (sublimation) Box of finish carts
Ok, a few things are needed, Alps Printer :MD1000,MD1300,MD5000 This picture shows an MD5000 with a finish box on top of it.



Various Pearlex powders
Depending on your application, different blends of pearl ex are needed, For Example, We show the cali holo, two powders were mixed.



Int-gold 50% / Sparkle Gold 50%
For Cali, best results seem to be this blend



Mixed powders
Make sure you mix the two pwders well. This is an important step



Supplies needed
You also need, transparency sheets 81/2 by 11, Pouch's, and tape (avoid double sided tape, and get the type that is photo sensative)



Now for the Template
Print the template of your choice in the center of the sheet (preset). Make sure you flip (horizontal) the image because you are working backwards. Also Make sure you know which direction the printer printed the holo, I have seen many people tape the pouch and print in the wrong direction. Taping the pouch is very crucial in the final outcome of your holo. Make sure that the pouch is tight and secure, this will help prevent any jamming or damage to your materials, but most importantly to your alps printer. This picture shows taped areas along the bottom of the pouch, to prevent jamming and also the top. No tape is used under or behind the pouch, no slits are made either. The key is consistancy, having a leveled pouch will yeild better results.




Smeared pouch
Dump your mix onto the pouch, with your index finger distribute the powder throughout the pouch. Be generous and do a clean job



Finished powdered pouch
OK, we left off with smearing the pouch next we will fanoff the extra powder.


OK make sure there is no powder under the pouch, this will cause dark.light holo spots, also dont put tape under the pouch, any occurance of uneven surface areas, and you will probably end up with streaks, which really sucks.

Setting up the properties
Once ready to print on the pouch, check spot colors on, then click single color, then click on finish. This tells the alps to print whatever was printed in black, but only in clear finish, this traps the powder. Creating very well made holos




After finish ribbon print
This is what you should have after you print on the holo with the finish cart, Make sure you do not use any other carts like the sublimation cart, or the primer carts.



Washing off
Ok, now you can remove the pouch from the sheet carefully, Usually let it sit for 2 minutes(don't have to but recomended). After this you can wash off the extra powder, Best results occur under hot water, hot enough for you to feel, Cold water will not completely take it off, use hot water of the tap, and rub off the extra powder with your fingers. Avoid using your finger nails, you might cause damage to the finished holo.



Close up PLEASE
You should get something like this.


I hope this rundown has helped you guys out! NOVELTY USE ONLY/EDUCATIONAL USE ONLY


This site DOES NOT create Drivers Licenses or any Official documents or any Government documents.
This site DOES NOT contain any information on how to make official identification documents.
All documents are for novelty purpose only and do not resemble official identification documents.
These novelty id cards and documents are extremely authentic looking in appearance and are intended for novelty purposes only. Commercial use is restricted to organizations authorized by law to issue any legal cards or documents, and samples shown are the property of their respective organizations.
These novelty cards and documents are not issued for commercial use, and grant you no special privileges. All items for novelty use only. This understanding is valid, binding and enforceable against all persons who viewing this site.